San Juan Chamula is a small town in the Mexican state of Chiapas, located at an altitude of around 2,200 meters. The area is known for its beautiful forest landscapes and hiking opportunities. It lies just 10 kilometers from the colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas, close to the Guatemalan border. The town is named after John the Baptist (Spanish San Juan Bautista), the patron saint of the Chamula people.
The residents of Chamula are primarily from the Tzotzil tribe, a group that speaks the Tzotzil language, which is part of the larger Mayan language family. This tribe is one of the most significant in the region, not only because of their large population but also because of their deep cultural heritage that has been preserved over centuries. The Tzotzil people have maintained many of their traditional customs, beliefs, and practices, which are passed down through generations. They are known for their intricate textiles, vibrant clothing, and unique way of blending indigenous traditions with influences from the outside world, creating a rich and distinct cultural identity. Their language, rituals, and everyday life offer a window into the ancient Mayan civilization and its enduring legacy.
Chamula is renowned not only for its stunning mountain scenery but also for its charming old church in the heart of the town. From the outside, it appears to be a typical church, but the interior is unlike anything you might expect.
The first thing you’ll notice is the absence of pews and an altar. In fact, this is not a typical Catholic church; everything inside looks quite unusual. The unique blend of Catholicism brought by the Spaniards and the existing Mayan religious customs has created the distinctive religion practiced by the people of Chamula today. This is why visitors are often puzzled by what they see inside the church.
One notable feature is the large wooden statues of saints and mirrors, which the Chamula people believe deflect evil spirits. The local beliefs have merged with Catholicism, so while the images of saints resemble Catholic icons, they actually symbolize Mayan gods.
Photography is prohibited inside the church. Large signs at the entrance warn visitors that cameras are not allowed, as taking photos is considered blasphemous. (I took the liberty of borrowing someone else’s photo. See below.)
Music is always present in the church, with Christmas songs being especially popular year-round. It is said that Christmas decorations and motifs can be found in local homes regardless of the season.
One thing that struck me was the men’s clothing. They were all dressed similarly—in jeans or pants, white shirts, and white woolen ponchos. And, of course, they wore white cowboy hats, as seen in the photos. Dressed this way, they entered the church and performed their rituals. What amazed me was a group of men in the church hanging a huge cross on the wall. They were all dressed the same, focused on their work, and smoking cigarettes without any concern for being in a sacred space.
The air is filled with the scent of incense, and the floor is covered with pine needles, which remind you of Christmas. The locals perform their rituals on this green carpet. What does the ritual involve?
People come to the church, some alone, others with their families. They all find a spot on the pine-covered floor and start their rituals with loud prayers. They place candles directly on the floor in rows, one after another. The prayers continue, powerful enough to touch the soul of anyone present. Each person carries their own pain and comes to the church seeking comfort. The family whose ritual I witnessed was praying for the health of their young daughter. They performed this ceremony for her because she was ill, and the locals believe it will help heal any believer.
They all come prepared, with bags full of items that we, as foreigners, watched with curiosity. Out came soft drinks and alcohol, necessary for the ritual. One of the well-known drinks, famous throughout Chiapas, is called Posh (Spanish El Posh or El Pox). It is a strong alcoholic beverage, similar to our brandy. Everyone in the church carried a bottle of it and poured it into small cups, from which family members drank. Along with Posh, they also poured Coca-Cola into another small cup. Coca-Cola is the most popular and consumed soft drink in the town and is evidently widely used for religious purposes, as all the locals brought and drank it during the ritual. It is even said that the wealthiest person in the village is the Coca-Cola distributor.
From the moving bags, we could occasionally see a chicken head poking out. Chickens play a central role in this ceremony, with locals bringing them alive into the church, carefully packed in their bags. As the ritual unfolds, one by one, the women take out the chickens they’ve brought (some bring two or more), each one gently pulled from the bag. They hold the chicken by its neck and begin rubbing it over the sick child’s body. The air is filled with the sound of prayers and singing from the family, their voices growing louder as the moment intensifies. Then, without warning, the woman suddenly twists the chicken’s neck, killing it in one swift motion. The belief is that this act transfers the illness and negative energy from the sick person to the chicken. The animal, now lifeless, is seen as the carrier of the disease, and with its death, the illness is believed to leave the person’s body, marking a sacred moment of healing in the ritual.
In conclusion, the church in Chamula blends Catholicism with indigenous Mayan customs in its rituals. Despite their unconventional nature to outsiders, these practices hold deep significance for the local community, providing solace and maintaining cultural identity. If you’re interested in experiencing some unique cultural traditions in Mexico, you might want to check out my Cozumel Carnival experience, where vibrant local celebrations take center stage. For those seeking a warm escape, you can also read about my Cancun getaway, which was the perfect way to escape the cold and dive into the heart of Mexican culture.
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